An afternoon in Pireus

For most Athenians, Pireus is the end of the train line and the unpleasant beginning of a summer vacation. If you stray from the waterfront, it is an unknown territory, a strange place, a maze. It is a place of adventure and discovery, filled with remntants from when Greece was still producing more and importing less. Disserted tabacco and textile factories, derilict warehouses, uninhabited neoclassical buildings that once spoke of prosperity and growth are all thrown in together along with the dated skyscrapers, the shipping offices, the fancy shopping streets, the rennovated buildings, the new blocks of flats and the odd house on top of another.

Although the water is polluted, I was amazed to see that there are still people who swim in the small beaches of Pireus. I'd like to think more out of stubborness to accept that the times have changed than out of sheer stupidity.

The most fascinating discovery of our afternoon in Pireus, however, was a little taverna hidden away in a residential area in Kaminia. It's one of those places that are not listed on any guides but are always full of locals. The decor is of an old tavern, with pictures from old Pireus and stills from black and white greek films on the walls, wooden barels, plastic vines, simple tables and chairs. The food -they serve both meat and fish dishes- is very fresh and when the bill came I thought they had made a mistake. I'm so impressed with this place that I'll give you the itemised bill:

1 καλαμαράκια (φρέσκα, τηγανιτά)

1 πατάτες (φρέσκιες, τηγανιτές)

1 σαλάτα (μαυρομάτικα, χόρτα, πατάτες βραστές, βραστό κολοκυθάκι, μπρόκολο και κουνουπίδι)

1 γαρίδες μικρούλες τηγανιτές

1 φέτα πάρα πολύ νόστιμη

1 γαλαίο σκορδαλιά (δεν έχω δοκιμάσει πιο φρέσκο)

1/2 κιλό κόκκινο κρασί

1 μπύρα Φιξ

How much was all that? An unbelievable 30 euros!

If you're in the area, don't miss it!

«Καπηλειό του Ζάχου» Κομοτηνής 37, Καμίνια